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When researching kimono, you may come across the term "tsumugi."
"What kind of kimono is tsumugi?"
"How is it different from a regular kimono?"
"What are the differences between Oshima Tsumugi and Yuki Tsumugi?"
You might be asking yourself questions like these.
Tsumugi is a silk fabric that has been produced in various regions of Japan since ancient times. Even under the single name of "tsumugi," the yarns, dyes, dyeing methods, and weaving techniques used vary by region, and each possesses its own unique character.
In this article, we will explain in an easy-to-understand way what kind of kimono tsumugi is, its characteristics, how it differs from other kimono, and representative types of tsumugi such as Oshima Tsumugi and Yuki Tsumugi.
Table of Contents
1. What is Tsumugi?
Traditionally, tsumugi refers to silk fabric woven using tsumugi yarn spun from mawata (silk floss).
"Mawata" here is not the cotton made from the cotton plant. It is silk fiber obtained by boiling silkworm cocoons to soften them, then spreading them out into a cotton-like state. The fibers are then drawn out to create thread, which is finished into fabric.
Hand-spun yarn can have slight variations in thickness or small knots. This leads to a rustic, warm texture that is different from uniform, smooth silk fabrics.
However, not all fabrics currently called "tsumugi" are made using the same yarn or manufacturing methods.
For example, authentic Oshima Tsumugi mainly uses raw silk. Additionally, Ushikubi Tsumugi, Shiozawa Tsumugi, and others each use different yarns and production methods.
Therefore, it is important not to assume "tsumugi = everything is made only from yarn spun from mawata," but to look at the production methods and history of each region.
2. What are the characteristics of Tsumugi?
One of the charms of tsumugi is the look and feel created by the yarn and the weaving itself.
Most tsumugi are made by "yarn-dyeing" (sakizome), where the yarn is dyed beforehand and then combined as it is woven, rather than weaving a white fabric first and then dyeing it.
One of the representative expressions is "kasuri" (ikat).
In kasuri, parts of the yarn are dyed in advance, and patterns are expressed by weaving the yarn according to calculated alignments.
Some are extremely intricate, where a collection of small dots and lines seen up close emerges as a single pattern when viewed from a distance.
In addition, some create patterns through the combination of dyed yarns, such as stripes and plaids.
Depending on the yarn, dyes, kasuri-making method, and weaving technique, the appearance and touch differ significantly even among items all called "tsumugi."
3. How does Tsumugi differ from other kimono?
To understand the difference between tsumugi and other kimono, it is helpful to know about "yarn-dyeing" (sakizome) and "piece-dyeing" (atozome).
Most tsumugi are "yarn-dyed," where the yarn is dyed before the fabric is woven. Patterns like kasuri, stripes, or plaids are expressed through the weaving process as dyed yarns are combined.
On the other hand, many kimono like furisode, homongi (visiting wear), and komon are "piece-dyed," where a white fabric is woven first and then colors and patterns are dyed onto it.
While furisode and homongi feature gorgeous expressions through dyeing, embroidery, and gold leaf, a major appeal of tsumugi is enjoying the color and texture of the yarn itself, and the appearance born from the weaving.
However, "tsumugi," "komon," "homongi," and "furisode" are not categories classified by the same criteria.
Since there are differences based not only on material, but also on dyeing methods, patterning, tailoring, and intended use, please remember that they cannot simply be divided into "tsumugi and everything else."
4. Representative types of Tsumugi across Japan
Across Japan, tsumugi with rich personalities have been produced, shaped by the local nature, culture, and inherited dyeing and weaving techniques.
Even if they carry the same "tsumugi" name, the yarns, dyes, weaving methods, colors, patterns, and textures vary widely.
Here, we will introduce six representative types of tsumugi.
Oshima Tsumugi | Kagoshima Prefecture, Amami Oshima, etc.
Oshima Tsumugi is one of Japan's representative silk fabrics, known for its smooth texture and intricate kasuri patterns.
Unlike the image of general "tsumugi," current authentic Oshima Tsumugi primarily uses raw silk.
In Amami Oshima, "mud dyeing" (dorozome), which involves repeating a process of dyeing with techi-ki (Indian hawthorn) and dyeing in mud paddies, is well known.
The deep, blackish-brown versions are typical, and in terms of patterns, there are also extremely intricate expressions, such as geometric patterns and plants combined with fine kasuri, so detailed that they appear as a single pattern from afar.
Yuki Tsumugi | Ibaraki Prefecture, Tochigi Prefecture
Yuki Tsumugi has been passed down primarily around Yuki City in Ibaraki Prefecture and Oyama City in Tochigi Prefecture.
The techniques that symbolize traditional authentic Yuki Tsumugi are "ito-tsumugi" (hand-spinning), "kasuri-kukuri" (tying for ikat), and "jibata-ori" (backstrap loom weaving).
They spin yarn by hand from mawata, tie the yarn to dye it for kasuri patterns, and weave it carefully using a jibata (backstrap loom).
By using hand-spun, twistless yarn and adjusting the tension with the weight of the weaver's body, a unique texture that is light, fluffy, and warm is created.
Patterns vary from plain or striped to intricate kasuri. It is a tsumugi where you can enjoy the gentle texture unique to hand-spun yarn and the expression of delicate weaving, rather than emphasizing a flashy luster.
The techniques of "ito-tsumugi," "kasuri-kukuri," and "jibata-ori" are requirements for designation as a National Important Intangible Cultural Property, and the traditional production techniques of Yuki Tsumugi are also registered as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage.
Ushikubi Tsumugi | Ishikawa Prefecture
Ushikubi Tsumugi is a tsumugi fabric passed down in the Shiramine region of Hakusan City, Ishikawa Prefecture.
One of its major characteristics is the use of "tama-mayu" (double cocoons), where two silkworms cooperate to form a single cocoon.
In double cocoons, the threads spun by the two silkworms are irregularly intertwined. Therefore, high-level skill is required to draw out the thread, and the resulting "tama-ito" (double-cocoon yarn) has unique small knots.
By using this yarn for the weft, Ushikubi Tsumugi gains a natural expression where the small knots of the double cocoon emerge, along with an elegant luster characteristic of silk.
It is also known for its firm tension and durability, leaving behind the alias "kuginuki-tsumugi" (nail-pulling tsumugi).
※Listed products may change or be discontinued depending on availability.
Kumejima Tsumugi | Okinawa Prefecture, Kumejima
Kumejima Tsumugi is a tsumugi fabric passed down on Kumejima Island in Okinawa Prefecture.
One characteristic is the dyeing using natural dyes derived from island plants.
Everything from yarn making to dyeing, kasuri-tying, and weaving is done by traditional manual labor.
As for patterns, in addition to the kasuri represented by "mi-ezu" patterns, stripes and plaids are also seen. Its charm lies in the unique expression created by combining deep, subdued colors from natural dyes with fine kasuri.
The traditional production techniques of Kumejima Tsumugi are designated as a National Important Intangible Cultural Property.
Shiozawa Tsumugi | Niigata Prefecture
Shiozawa Tsumugi is a tsumugi fabric made around Minamiuonuma City in Niigata Prefecture.
Raw silk or double-cocoon yarn is used for the warp, and yarn hand-spun from mawata is used for the weft, and it is woven while aligning each kasuri thread.
Along with the texture from the hand-spun mawata yarn, it is characterized by the ability to enjoy extremely fine kasuri patterns.
Particularly well-known are the fine patterns called "ka-gasuri" (mosquito-like ikat), as well as cross-kasuri and tortoise-shell kasuri. Delicate kasuri patterns create an elegant and calm expression.
In the same Shiozawa region, there are also traditional fabrics like "Hon-Shiozawa" and "Echigo Jofu," but they are distinguished from Shiozawa Tsumugi because the materials and manufacturing methods used are different.
※Listed products may change or be discontinued depending on availability.
Shinshu Tsumugi | Nagano Prefecture
Shinshu Tsumugi is a collective term for tsumugi fabrics produced in various parts of Nagano Prefecture, where sericulture has been thriving since ancient times.
Tsumugi with unique characteristics has developed in each region, including Matsumoto Tsumugi, Ueda Tsumugi, Ina Tsumugi, and Iida Tsumugi.
The yarns used include raw silk, double-cocoon yarn, and hand-spun mawata yarn, and the variety of yarn combinations and rich hues from plant-based dyeing are the charm of Shinshu Tsumugi.
By using plants found in the nature of Nagano as dyes, dyeing the yarn, and weaving by hand, natural shades of color and an expression that differs for every bolt of fabric are born.
5. Is Tsumugi everyday wear even though it is high-end?
Because some Oshima Tsumugi and Yuki Tsumugi are very expensive, you might think, "If it's high-end tsumugi, can it be worn for formal occasions like weddings?"
However, with kimono, a high price and "formality" are not necessarily the same thing.
Tsumugi has a background of having developed as everyday wear, and generally, it is a woven kimono enjoyed as fashionable attire.
It is also suitable for slightly special outings, such as theater visits, museum trips, dining, or walking around town.
Even if a tsumugi is very expensive, that alone does not make it a formal garment like a homongi or a tomesode.
On the other hand, in modern times, homongi made by applying piece-dyeing to tsumugi fabric, such as Ushikubi Tsumugi, are also being created.
Therefore, when considering wearing scenes, it is important not to lump them all together as "tsumugi," but to judge based on factors including tailoring, dyeing, and patterning.
6. Is all Tsumugi made of pure silk (shoken)?
Traditional tsumugi is a silk fabric, but caution is required when judging materials, especially when looking at old kimono.
With vintage kimono, it is not uncommon for quality labels, certificates, or purchase records to be missing.
There are also fabrics that express knots and textures like tsumugi, or woven fabrics that use different types of fibers.
Therefore, just because it looks like tsumugi, you cannot judge it to be "100% pure silk."
With used/vintage kimono, it is important to think of "what the fabric looks like" and "what fibers it is made of" as separate things.
7. Bringing the charm of kimono to new forms | TOP WAVE
At TOP WAVE, we unravel vintage kimono that are no longer being used, and upcycle them into modern fashion like Aloha shirts while taking advantage of their colors, patterns, and woven expressions.
With old kimono, information such as the production region, material, and manufacturing period is sometimes lost.
Therefore, rather than definitively labeling items that cannot be confirmed as "Oshima Tsumugi," "Yuki Tsumugi," or "pure silk," we value taking advantage of the patterns, colors, weaves, and textures that each individual kimono possesses.
The charm of kimono is not just the gorgeous patterns.
Spinning the yarn, dyeing with natural materials, and weaving every single thread.
By knowing that background, perhaps you will be able to see a charm you haven't noticed before in a single kimono that has lived through many years.