What Is a Tanmono? An Easy-to-Understand Guide to Sizes, Types, Tailoring Methods, and How It Differs from Kimono

When researching kimonos, you may come across the term "tanmono" (kimono fabric bolt).

Many people probably have these questions.

Tanmono refers to the fabric bolt before it is tailored into a kimono.

In Japan, for centuries, beautifully tailored and comfortable kimonos have been created by custom-fitting long, narrow woven fabric bolts to each individual's body shape.

Today, beyond being tailored into kimonos, tanmono is also gaining attention as a new way to incorporate traditional Japanese culture into everyday life through upcycling into items like shirts and bags.

This article will clearly explain the meaning of tanmono, its size, types, differences from kimonos, tailoring methods, and modern uses, making it easy to understand even for beginners.

1. What is Tanmono?

Tanmono is a long, narrow piece of fabric woven to be tailored into a single kimono.

While Western clothing is made by freely cutting wide fabrics, kimonos are tailored using narrow fabric bolts called tanmono.

This allows for the creation of a kimono with almost no fabric waste, making it a uniquely Japanese and rational clothing structure.

Kimono fabric stores often sell tanmono as bolts, and after purchase, they are measured and tailored to fit the individual's body, completing a kimono.

The ability to tailor a unique piece that isn't mass-produced is another charm of tanmono.

In this way, tanmono is an essential part of traditional Japanese clothing culture and continues to be widely used for making kimonos and for repurposing.

2. How long is "Ittan" (one tan)?

Tanmono are counted in units of "tan".

A typical tanmono is woven to be approximately 36cm wide and 12m long, and this standard size is called a "Sanjo-mono".

However, since kimonos are tailored to fit the wearer's height and build, the width and length of tanmono are not always uniform.

3. Types of Tanmono Widths

Tanmono come in several widths to accommodate different body types.

Standard width is generally the most common, but wider tanmono like queen size or king size are chosen for taller individuals or those with longer sleeve lengths.

Also, while fabrics for Western clothing are typically about 110-150cm wide, tanmono are narrow, about 36-42cm wide.

Utilizing this long, narrow fabric efficiently for tailoring is a unique characteristic of kimonos.

4. From Tanmono to Kimono: The Process

Tanmono cannot be worn as is.

After purchase, it is tailored to the wearer's body type and purpose, becoming a finished kimono.

The general steps are as follows:

1. Choose the tanmono
2. Take measurements
3. Perform pre-processing like yudoshi and yunoshi
4. Match patterns
5. Cut the fabric
6. Sew with wasai (Japanese sewing techniques)
7. Finish and inspect

By carefully performing each step, a comfortable kimono that fits your body perfectly is completed.

4-1. Measurement

Unlike Western clothing, which comes in ready-made sizes, kimonos are fundamentally tailored to each individual's body.

By measuring height, sleeve length, body length, and other dimensions, and tailoring the kimono to those specific measurements, a beautiful silhouette and comfortable fit are achieved.

4-2. What are Yudoshi and Yunoshi?

Before tailoring tanmono into a kimono, pre-processing is performed according to the fabric type and condition. The main processes are "yudoshi" and "yunoshi."

Yudoshi

Yudoshi is a process where tanmono is soaked in hot water to remove sizing agents used during weaving.

Its purpose is to soften the fabric and bring out its natural texture, as well as to minimize shrinkage after tailoring.

Yunoshi

Yunoshi is a process where steam or heat is applied to the tanmono to smooth out wrinkles and distortions, while also evening out the fabric's width.

It is an important step that not only prepares the fabric for easier tailoring but also contributes to a beautiful finish.

4-3. Pattern Matching

When tailoring a kimono, the cutting positions are determined so that patterns on the back, sleeves, collar, etc., appear beautifully aligned.

Even with the same fabric, the pattern's appearance changes depending on where it's cut, making this a crucial step where the craftsman's experience and skill are vital.

4-4. Tailoring by Wasai (Japanese sewing)

After cutting, a wasai (Japanese tailor) carefully hand-sews each stitch.

Kimonos are primarily sewn with straight seams, which not only minimizes fabric waste but also has the advantage that, being hand-sewn, the needle marks are less likely to remain when stitches are undone, making alterations and resizing easier.

Therefore, the ability to be cherished and passed down through generations is another unique charm of kimonos.

5. "Awase" and "Hitoe" Tailored from Tanmono

When tailoring a kimono from tanmono, the tailoring method is chosen according to the season it will be worn. The typical types are "Awase" and "Hitoe."

Awase

Awase is a lined kimono, sewn with an outer fabric and an inner lining.

It offers good heat retention and is generally worn from October to May. The lining can be made of silk, polyester, etc., chosen according to the purpose.

Hitoe

Hitoe is an unlined kimono, made with a single layer of fabric.

It is lightweight and well-ventilated, traditionally worn mainly in June and September, but in recent years, due to climate change, it is increasingly worn in spring and autumn as well.

Even with the same tanmono, the comfort and the season it can be worn change depending on whether it is tailored as an awase or a hitoe.

6. What types of Tanmono are there?

Even though it's called tanmono, there are various types depending on their purpose.

Kijaku

This is the most common type of tanmono.

It is used to tailor many kimonos, such as komon, tsumugi, iromuji, houmongi, and yukata. Depending on the tailoring, it can also be used for haori or coats.

The typical length is about 12m, serving as a guideline for tailoring one adult-sized kimono.

Hajaku

This is a tanmono for tailoring haori jackets.

The typical length is about 9m, but it varies depending on the purpose and design.

Currently, tanmono used for haori and coats may also be sold as "coat fabric" or "kijaku," so the purpose and type of tanmono can vary widely depending on the product.

Obiji

This is a tanmono for tailoring obi belts, such as fukuro obi and nagoya obi.

The typical length is about 4-4.5m for fukuro obi and about 3.5-4m for nagoya obi.

Various weaving methods and materials are used depending on the type and purpose of the obi, and they are widely used from formal wear to everyday use.

Nagajuban Tanmono

This is a tanmono for tailoring nagajuban, the undergarment worn beneath a kimono.

The typical length is about 10-12m, and like kimonos, they are tailored to fit the individual's body.

Nagajuban play a role in protecting the kimono from sweat and sebum, and in maintaining a beautiful silhouette.

7. Main Materials of Tanmono

Tanmono come in various materials, each with different textures, comfort, and care methods.

Shōken (pure silk)

Natural silk made from silkworm cocoons. It is characterized by its elegant luster and smooth feel, and is often used for high-end kimonos.

Cotton

Durable and easy to handle, many types can be washed at home, making it popular for everyday wear.

Linen

Excellent breathability and moisture absorption, often used for summer kimonos and yukata.

Polyester

Wrinkle-resistant and easy to care for. It is also relatively affordable and widely used for everyday kimonos.

Wool

Highly insulating, it was widely popular as everyday kimono fabric in the Showa era. It is still used today for casual kimonos and other items.

8. Quality Labels and Shoshi (Certificates) Remaining on Tanmono

Tanmono may have quality labels indicating the material type, length, and origin, or a shoshi (certificate) showing the origin, weaver, etc.

Therefore, when remaking tanmono into items like shirts, checking these labels can accurately state the material composition in the product information.

On the other hand, when tailoring tanmono into a kimono, these quality labels and shoshi are removed. As a result, it is often difficult to identify the material or origin from a finished kimono alone.

Shoshi also serve as documents to confirm the origin, weaver, and quality of the tanmono, so they are sometimes carefully preserved as proof even after tailoring.

9. Differences Between Tanmono and Kimono

In short, tanmono is the material for a kimono, and a kimono is the finished product. That's the difference.

Being able to create a piece that perfectly fits one's body and preferences by tailoring from tanmono is also a significant appeal.

10. Benefits of Tailoring from Tanmono

Fits your size

By tailoring after taking measurements, the kimono will fit your height and body type, resulting in a beautiful and comfortable garment.

Choose your favorite pattern and material

By selecting from bolts of fabric, you can tailor a kimono with your preferred pattern, color, and material.

Choose your tailoring method

You can choose the tailoring method, such as awase or hitoe, depending on the season and purpose of wear.

Can be worn for a long time

Kimonos are easy to alter and resize, so with proper care, they can be cherished and worn for a long time.

11. Tanmono is Not Just for Kimonos: Expanding Modern Uses

When you hear "tanmono," you might imagine fabric specifically for tailoring kimonos.

However, in recent years, repurposing and upcycling tanmono have gained attention as ways to incorporate them into modern life.

• Shirts
• Aloha shirts
• Dresses
• Bags
• Pouches
• Cushion covers

Old tanmono sometimes feature color palettes, patterns, and weaving styles that are rarely seen today.

By leveraging their charm and transforming them into new forms, this also draws attention as an initiative to connect traditional Japanese culture to the future.

12. TOP WAVE's Craftsmanship Utilizes Aged Tanmono

At TOP WAVE, we carefully examine each bolt of tanmono and kimono that have been carefully stored across Japan, selecting those suitable for shirts based on their patterns, colors, and condition.

Among the tanmono that have been stored without being tailored, some feature patterns that are difficult to weave today, or colors and textures unique to their time.

TOP WAVE's craftsmanship is about transforming these tanmono and kimonos into new forms as unique, one-of-a-kind shirts.

Material information understood because it's made from tanmono

If quality labels or certificates remain on the tanmono, the material composition can sometimes be confirmed.

At TOP WAVE, for tanmono whose materials can be confirmed, we can accurately display the material information on the product based on that information.

On the other hand, when remaking kimonos, quality labels and other indicators are often already removed, making it difficult to accurately identify the material composition.

The unique expression of patterns that only one-of-a-kind items possess

Since tanmono is a long, narrow piece of fabric, the pattern's appearance changes depending on the cutting position.

Therefore, even shirts made from the same tanmono will have a different pattern expression for each piece.

The encounter with a unique piece, unlike mass-produced items, is also a charm unique to craftsmanship that utilizes tanmono and kimonos.

13. Frequently Asked Questions about Tanmono

14. Summary

Tanmono refers to the long, narrow fabric bolt before it is tailored into a kimono.

A typical tanmono has a standard width of approximately 36cm and a length of approximately 12m, known as "Sanjo-mono," but there are various widths and lengths depending on the wearer's body type and purpose.

Tanmono undergoes measurement and pre-processing before being tailored into a kimono that fits each individual. Furthermore, in recent years, there has been an increasing trend to remake them into items such as shirts and bags, not just kimonos.

Tanmono embodies the skills of artisans, the unique aesthetic sense of Japan, and an allure that does not fade even after many years.

At TOP WAVE, we value the worth of such tanmono and kimonos, carrying them into the future in the new form of one-of-a-kind shirts.

We hope this article helps you feel a closer connection to the charm of tanmono, kimonos, and Japanese craftsmanship.