"Oshima Tsumugi" is known as one of Japan's representative traditional silk fabrics.
Even if you've heard the name, many of you probably have questions like these:
"What kind of kimono is Oshima Tsumugi?"
"How is it different from other tsumugi?"
"What is mud dyeing?"
Oshima Tsumugi is a silk fabric said to have originated in Amami Oshima and has been handed down through a long history.
It possesses many charms, such as a light and smooth texture, beautiful luster, and intricate kasuri patterns.
Furthermore, "mud dyeing," which utilizes the natural environment of Amami Oshima, is widely known as a representative dyeing method for Oshima Tsumugi.
This article provides an easy-to-understand explanation for beginners, covering the meaning and history of Oshima Tsumugi, mud dyeing, the manufacturing process, characteristics, differences from other tsumugi, and how to read its certification.
Open Table of Contents Close Table of Contents
- What is Oshima Tsumugi?
- History of Oshima Tsumugi
- What is mud dyeing, a representative dyeing method of Oshima Tsumugi?
- How Oshima Tsumugi is Made
- Characteristics of Oshima Tsumugi
- Representative Tsumugi Inherited Across Japan
- Differences Between Oshima Tsumugi and Other Tsumugi
- Types of Oshima Tsumugi by Dyeing Method
- What is the Oshima Tsumugi Certification (Shoshi)?
- Differences Between Honba Oshima Tsumugi and Oshima Tsumugi
- Oshima Tsumugi Enjoyed Even Today
- Summary
- About TOP WAVE
1. What is Oshima Tsumugi?
Oshima Tsumugi is one of Japan's representative silk fabrics, said to have originated in Amami Oshima.
Currently, it is mainly produced in the Amami Islands, around Kagoshima City, and Miyakonojo City in Miyazaki Prefecture.
Although the name Oshima Tsumugi includes the character for "tsumugi," it differs from typical tsumugi in the type of thread used and the texture of the fabric.
Many common tsumugi fabrics use "tsumugi thread" spun by hand from floss silk.
In contrast, Honba Oshima Tsumugi primarily uses "raw silk" (kiito), which is a long thread drawn from cocoons.
For this reason, Oshima Tsumugi has fewer rustic irregularities (slubs) seen in typical tsumugi, boasting a smooth texture and elegant luster.
Oshima Tsumugi is 100% silk fabric.
The main material used for Honba Oshima Tsumugi is raw silk.
Raw silk refers to silk thread made by drawing thin, long threads from silkworm cocoons and combining several of them.
On the other hand, many typical tsumugi fabrics use thread spun from floss silk (mawata).
The term "mawata" here does not refer to cotton.
Mawata is silk created by boiling silkworm cocoons to soften them, then spreading them thinly and layering them.
It is primarily used for twin cocoons, which are difficult to draw into a single long thread, and irregular-shaped cocoons.
Threads made by hand-pulling mawata thinly are called "tsumugi threads," resulting in natural variations in thickness and slubs in the thread.
In contrast, raw silk is relatively uniform with fewer slubs, which contributes to Oshima Tsumugi's unique smoothness and luster.
2. History of Oshima Tsumugi
The exact origins of Oshima Tsumugi are not clearly known.
It is generally considered a textile originating in Amami Oshima, and its history is said to date back approximately 1,300 years.
Sericulture and textile production have been practiced in Amami Oshima since ancient times, and unique dyeing and weaving techniques have been cultivated amidst the island's nature and lifestyle.
Oshima Tsumugi developed during the Edo period
During the Edo period, Oshima Tsumugi came to be treated as a tribute item to the Satsuma Domain.
For the people of Amami, Oshima Tsumugi played a significant role as an important product rather than as clothing they could freely wear.
Throughout this period, dyeing and weaving techniques were refined, and the quality of Oshima Tsumugi was enhanced.
Became widely available as a commercial product in the Meiji era
In the Meiji era, Oshima Tsumugi began to be produced commercially on a full scale.
While hand-spun threads were used until then, raw silk gradually became employed, leading to the smooth, lustrous fabric seen today.
Furthermore, the development of the "shimebata" (tightening loom) technique for creating precise kasuri patterns allowed for more intricate and complex designs.
Oshima Tsumugi is a textile that has been passed down to the present day, evolving its techniques with the times.
Inherited as a Traditional Craft
Honba Oshima Tsumugi was designated as a national traditional craft in 1975.
Not only are traditional techniques preserved, but colors, patterns, and products tailored to modern life are also being created.
Today, it is not only used for kimonos but also incorporated into Western clothing, bags, and accessories, drawing attention as a material that allows people to enjoy Japanese traditional culture in new forms.
3. What is mud dyeing, a representative dyeing method of Oshima Tsumugi?
One of the representative dyeing methods for Oshima Tsumugi is "mud dyeing," which utilizes the natural environment of Amami Oshima.
When you hear "mud dyeing," you might imagine silk threads being dyed only with mud.
However, in reality, dyeing is achieved by combining a dye solution made from sharinbai (Rhaphiolepis indica) and mud fields containing iron.
Dyeing with Sharinbai
Sharinbai is a plant native to Amami Oshima.
When its trunks and branches are crushed and boiled, a reddish-brown dye solution containing tannin is produced.
Silk threads are soaked in this dye solution, allowing the dye to permeate the threads.
Dyeing in Mud Fields
The threads dyed with the sharinbai solution are kneaded in mud fields containing iron.
The tannins in the sharinbai and the iron in the mud react chemically, gradually changing the color of the threads to a deep reddish-brown.
By repeatedly dyeing with sharinbai and in mud fields, the deep colors characteristic of Oshima Tsumugi are created.
It's not just a simple black; the color has a depth that shows subtle reddish or brownish tones depending on how the light hits it.
Not all Oshima Tsumugi is mud-dyed.
Mud dyeing is a representative technique of Oshima Tsumugi, but not all Oshima Tsumugi is made with mud dyeing.
Some are made by combining indigo dyeing, some utilize a white ground, and others use various color dyes.
Oshima Tsumugi is not a name referring to a specific color, but a silk fabric passed down through its origin, production method, and weaving techniques.
4. How Oshima Tsumugi is Made
Honba Oshima Tsumugi is created through a division of labor involving many artisans.
While specific processes may vary depending on the product and region, it is said to involve over 30 steps from design to dyeing, weaving, and inspection, taking a long time to complete.
The main steps are as follows:
- Create the design.
- Design the kasuri pattern.
- Prepare the threads.
- Weave the kasuri mat with a shimebata (tightening loom).
- Dye the threads with sharinbai, mud, etc.
- Untie the kasuri mat.
- Prepare the warp and weft threads.
- Weave while aligning the kasuri.
- Finish and inspect.
4-1. Design Creation
First, the pattern for the finished Oshima Tsumugi is designed.
The kasuri pattern of Oshima Tsumugi is not printed onto the woven fabric afterward.
Instead, patterns are created by pre-dyeing specific sections of the warp and weft threads and then weaving them together.
Therefore, even at the design stage, the position of each individual thread must be precisely calculated.
4-2. Creating a Kasuri Mat with a Shimebata Loom
The "shimebata" (tightening loom) is crucial for creating the precise kasuri patterns of Oshima Tsumugi.
The silk threads to be dyed are tightly woven with cotton threads to form what is called a "kasuri mushiro" (kasuri mat).
The tightly bound areas prevent the dye solution from penetrating, while the unbound areas absorb the color, creating the dyed divisions that form the basis of the kasuri pattern.
4-3. Dyeing the Threads
The kasuri mats are then dyed using sharinbai dye solution, mud fields, and other methods.
To beautifully express the pattern, it is essential to work carefully, monitoring the dyeing process to ensure that only the necessary parts are accurately colored.
4-4. Untying the Kasuri Mat
Once dyeing is complete, the kasuri mat is untied, revealing the kasuri threads, which are divided into dyed and undyed sections.
These kasuri threads are then separated into warp and weft and prepared for weaving.
4-5. Weaving while aligning the kasuri
In the weaving process, the pattern is created by gradually aligning the dyed sections of the warp and weft threads.
Even a slight misalignment of threads can affect the finished pattern.
Therefore, artisans check the position of the kasuri with every weave and make fine adjustments using needles or other tools.
The patterns of Oshima Tsumugi are created through both dyeing and weaving.
5. Characteristics of Oshima Tsumugi
Oshima Tsumugi possesses various characteristics that differentiate it from other silk fabrics and tsumugi.
Light and comfortable to wear
Oshima Tsumugi is known for being thin and light, which is said to minimize physical strain even when worn for long periods.
Its appealing qualities also include a适度（適度） degree of firmness that allows the fabric to adapt comfortably to the body.
Smooth and silky texture
Oshima Tsumugi, made from raw silk, has fewer thread slubs compared to typical tsumugi, resulting in a smooth surface.
It offers a dry, smooth feel and a unique, slick wearing comfort.
Elegant luster
Oshima Tsumugi possesses the elegant luster characteristic of silk.
It's not a strong, brilliant sheen, but a subdued glow that appears naturally depending on how the light hits it, giving it a calm impression.
Fine kasuri patterns
A major characteristic of Oshima Tsumugi is its precise kasuri patterns, created by combining warp and weft threads.
From a distance, it appears as a single pattern, but up close, you can see that the design is formed by an accumulation of tiny kasuri dots.
Each piece has a unique character
Even Oshima Tsumugi made from the same design can vary in texture due to slight differences in dyeing and weaving.
Furthermore, when repurposing a kimono into a shirt or other item, the pattern's appearance changes depending on where it is cut.
The individuality of each piece, where it's difficult to create identical items repeatedly, is also a charm of Oshima Tsumugi.
6. Column: Not just Oshima Tsumugi! Representative Tsumugi Inherited Across Japan
When you hear "tsumugi," many people might think of Oshima Tsumugi, but there are various tsumugi with unique charms found throughout Japan.
Yuki Tsumugi
This tsumugi is produced mainly in Ibaraki and Tochigi prefectures. Some varieties use hand-spun threads from floss silk, known for their soft and warm texture.
Ushikubi Tsumugi
This tsumugi is produced in Hakusan City, Ishikawa Prefecture. Threads are taken from "tama-mayu" (twin cocoons), where two silkworms spin one cocoon, and woven into a strong and supple fabric.
Shiozawa Tsumugi
This tsumugi is produced in the Minamiuonuma City area of Niigata Prefecture. It is characterized by a smooth texture and delicate kasuri patterns in subdued colors.
Yonezawa Tsumugi
This tsumugi is produced in the Yonezawa City area of Yamagata Prefecture. It features a variety of colors and patterns, including stripes and checks, often using plant dyes.
Kumejima Tsumugi
This tsumugi has been passed down on Kumejima Island in Okinawa Prefecture. It uses plants and mud native to the island for dyeing, resulting in a rustic and subdued texture.
While each has its unique appeal, the smooth texture and precise kasuri patterns are distinctive features of Oshima Tsumugi.
7. Column: What's the difference between Oshima Tsumugi and other tsumugi?
Both Oshima Tsumugi and other tsumugi such as Yuki Tsumugi are primarily made of silk.
However, upon touch, Oshima Tsumugi feels smooth and slick, while typical tsumugi often has a soft and warm texture.
One reason for this difference lies in the thread used.
Many typical tsumugi fabrics use tsumugi thread spun by hand from floss silk.
Tsumugi thread has natural variations in thickness and slubs, which creates a plump and rustic texture.
On the other hand, Honba Oshima Tsumugi primarily uses raw silk.
Raw silk is a relatively uniform thread drawn long from cocoons, so it has fewer slubs, resulting in a smooth texture and luster.
The threads and production methods used for tsumugi vary depending on the region and product. Not all tsumugi are made using the same method, so please refer to this table as a guide for typical differences.
8. Column: Oshima Tsumugi also varies by dyeing method
Oshima Tsumugi also varies in type depending on the ground color and dyeing method.
Doro Oshima (Mud Oshima)
This is a representative Oshima Tsumugi, dyed using sharinbai dye solution and mud fields. It is characterized by its deep reddish-brown color and subdued luster.
Doroai Oshima (Mud Indigo Oshima)
This Oshima Tsumugi combines indigo dyeing with mud dyeing. It offers a subdued color that blends the depth of mud-dyed Oshima with the blue tones of indigo.
Iro Oshima (Color Oshima)
This Oshima Tsumugi expresses a variety of colors and patterns using various dyes, not limited to mud dyeing. It includes bright colors and vibrant patterns, giving it a different impression from Doro Oshima.
Shiro Oshima (White Oshima)
This Oshima Tsumugi features a white or light-colored ground. Its intricate kasuri patterns stand out, giving it a bright and elegant impression.
Even within Oshima Tsumugi, the visual impression changes significantly depending on the dyeing method and ground color.
9. What is the Oshima Tsumugi Certification (Shoshi)?
Oshima Tsumugi bolts sometimes come with a "shoshi" (certification), which indicates their origin, quality, and production method.
The shoshi serves as documentation confirming that the product has passed inspections conducted by each production region, and it acts as a guide when choosing Honba Oshima Tsumugi.
Representative certifications include:
- Chikyu-jirushi (Earth Mark)
- Hata-jirushi (Flag Mark)
- Tsuru-jirushi (Crane Mark)
- Shoshi indicating mud dyeing
The type of certification varies depending on the production area, association, and manufacturing method.
Additionally, certifications are typically attached to the end of the fabric bolt.
Since they are removed when the bolt is tailored into a kimono, it is not uncommon for a finished kimono to no longer have its certification.
The absence of a certification on a used kimono or a repurposed item does not necessarily mean it is not Oshima Tsumugi.
However, for kimonos without a remaining certification, it can be difficult to accurately determine the material, origin, or manufacturing method.
While the certification is a crucial verification for purchasing new fabric bolts, finished kimonos may not retain theirs.
What is the "Traditional Mark" on the certification?
The certification for Honba Oshima Tsumugi may include a "Traditional Mark," indicating that it is a traditional craft product designated by the Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry.
The Traditional Mark is a symbol confirming that a traditional craft product meets the specified criteria for origin, techniques, raw materials, and has passed inspection.
However, whether or not the Traditional Mark is present does not unilaterally determine if the product is hand-woven or machine-woven.
For Honba Oshima Tsumugi from Kagoshima, clues to distinguish between hand-woven and machine-woven can be found by also checking the issuing organization name listed below the Traditional Mark, as well as the color and indications of the flag mark.
Hand-woven and machine-woven do not mean one is fake. They differ in manufacturing method, expressible patterns, and price range, so it's important to check the certification information and choose according to your purpose and preference.
10. Differences Between Honba Oshima Tsumugi and Oshima Tsumugi
"Honba Oshima Tsumugi" and "Oshima Tsumugi" may be used interchangeably, but they need to be considered distinct terms.
Honba Oshima Tsumugi refers to Oshima Tsumugi made according to the requirements of traditional crafts designated by the government and the manufacturing and inspection standards set for each production region.
The traditional manufacturing method for Honba Oshima Tsumugi uses raw silk, is woven in a plain weave with pre-dyed threads, and features kasuri patterns created by hand-aligning kasuri threads.
On the other hand, the name "Oshima Tsumugi" is sometimes used colloquially to broadly refer to textiles considered Oshima Tsumugi.
Therefore, not all "Oshima Tsumugi" sold necessarily meets the standards of Honba Oshima Tsumugi as a nationally designated traditional craft.
If you wish to choose authentic Oshima Tsumugi, it is important not to judge by name alone, but to check the certificate, product description, and store information.
However, for pre-tailored kimonos or used items, the certificate may have been removed.
If there is no certificate, you can consult a store with specialized knowledge or an appraisal expert.
11. Oshima Tsumugi Enjoyed Today
Oshima Tsumugi is not only enjoyed as a traditional kimono but is also utilized in various items that are easy to incorporate into modern life.
- Shirts
- Jackets
- Dresses
- Bags
- Wallets and pouches
- Accessories
There are also initiatives to unravel Oshima Tsumugi kimonos that have been tailored, check the fabric condition, and re-tailor them into new products.
Light and smooth Oshima Tsumugi is easy to incorporate into Western clothing, allowing you to enjoy the Kasuri patterns and elegant luster in everyday fashion.
Furthermore, repurposing kimonos that have been stored for a long time into new forms is one way to carefully utilize materials and pass on Japan's traditional textile culture to the next generation.
Oshima Tsumugi can be enjoyed in ways that suit modern life, not just as a traditional kimono passed down through generations.
12. Summary
Oshima Tsumugi is a representative Japanese silk fabric, said to have originated in Amami Oshima, and has been passed down through a long history.
It has unique charms such as a smooth and soft texture using raw silk, elegant luster, and Kasuri patterns expressed by finely aligning warp and weft threads.
Furthermore, mud-dyeing, which uses Yaeyama-aoki and mud fields, is a representative dyeing method for Oshima Tsumugi.
By combining natural materials and the skills of artisans, a deep reddish-brown color is created.
There are various types of Tsumugi in Japan, such as Yuki Tsumugi, Ushikubi Tsumugi, Shiozawa Tsumugi, and Kumejima Tsumugi.
Each differs in the thread used, dyeing method, and weaving technique, resulting in distinctive textures and characteristics unique to each production area.
By understanding the history and manufacturing methods of Oshima Tsumugi, you can gain a deeper appreciation for the techniques and craftsmanship embedded in each piece of fabric.
13. About TOP WAVE
TOP WAVE is a kimono upcycling brand that transforms carefully preserved kimonos and fabric rolls from various parts of Japan into unique shirts and apparel.
Each kimono used is unique, and we handle various types of kimonos, including Komon, Houmongi, and Tsumugi.
Among these, some products may use fabrics for which Oshima Tsumugi certificates or material information can be confirmed.
However, TOP WAVE is not a brand specializing in selling Oshima Tsumugi.
Furthermore, certificates and quality labels are often not present on tailored kimonos, so products for which the material or origin cannot be clearly confirmed are not definitively sold as Oshima Tsumugi.
We value the patterns, colors, and textures of each kimono, tailoring them into unique items that are easy to incorporate into modern life.
The charm of kimono remaking is that you may never encounter the same pattern or arrangement of a shirt again.
Please take a look at our one-of-a-kind kimono remake items.
View TOP WAVE products