What Is a Haori? Its Differences from Kimonos, Types, History, and Popularity Overseas Explained

The "haori" is characterized by its shape, which resembles a shortened kimono. At first glance, it looks very similar to a kimono, but it is actually a traditional Japanese outer garment that serves a different purpose.

Recently, it has attracted attention as a fashion item overseas, with styles of casually throwing it over Western clothing also being introduced.

For those who have such questions, this time we will clearly explain the characteristics, history, types, and reasons why haori are attracting attention overseas .

Table of Contents

1. What is a haori?
2. History and Origins of the Haori
3. Differences Between Haori, Kimonos, and Coats
4. What Types of Haori Are There?
5. When Do You Wear a Haori? Seasons and Occasions
6. Haori Attracting Attention Overseas. What Is the Reason for Its Popularity?
7. Bringing the Charm of Kimonos to a New Form | TOP WAVE

1. What Is a Haori?

A haori is a traditional Japanese outer garment worn over a kimono .

Unlike a kimono, where the front panels are overlapped and secured with an obi, a haori is worn open at the front and is generally fastened together with a haori cord.

Like a kimono, it has sleeves and a collar, but it is characterized by the ability to wear it while partially revealing the obi or the pattern of the kimono.

The haori originally developed as men's attire and later came to be worn by women as well.

In addition to its practical role in keeping warm and protecting against dust, the ability to enjoy combining its colors and patterns with a kimono is also one of the haori's charms.

2. History and Origins of the Haori

There are various theories about the origins of the haori, but its roots are thought to go back to the late Muromachi period and the Sengoku period.

The predecessor of the haori is considered to be the "doubuku" worn by samurai.

The doubuku was an outer garment worn over a kosode by military commanders and others from the Muromachi period to the early Edo period. It was relatively short and came in both sleeved and sleeveless versions, and is considered the prototype of the modern haori.

Also, during the Sengoku period, military commanders wore "jinbaori" over their armor.

In addition to its practical role in keeping warm and protecting against rain, the jinbaori also served to show the dignity and individuality of the military commander.

Later, during the Edo period, the haori spread not only among samurai but also among townspeople, developing into stylish clothing with attention paid to colors, patterns, length, and linings.

The Reason Women Began Wearing Haori

One of the reasons women began wearing haori is attributed to the geisha of Fukagawa, Edo.

At that time, the haori was mainly men's clothing, but during the Edo period, geisha in Fukagawa began wearing haori, and came to be called "haori geisha."

Women adopting masculine clothing attracted attention as a stylish fashion of the time.

However, there were times when the wearing of haori by women was prohibited by the Edo shogunate, and it is said that it became widely popular among ordinary women from the Meiji period onward.

Thus, the haori has developed from a practical garment for samurai into everyday stylish clothing, and even formal attire such as montsuki haori hakama.

The fact that it has been passed down while changing its role and style over time is also one of the haori's charms.

3. Differences Between Haori, Kimonos, and Coats

Haori and kimonos look similar, but they each serve different purposes.

A kimono is the basic traditional Japanese garment that is layered on the body and worn with an obi.

On the other hand, a haori is an outer garment worn over a fully dressed kimono, and the haori itself is usually not fastened with an obi.

Also, something that is easily confused with a haori is a Japanese-style coat.

A Japanese-style coat is an outer garment worn to protect a kimono from cold, rain, and dirt. There are various types in shape, such as michiyuki coats and michuugi.

While a haori may be worn indoors as part of an outfit, a Japanese-style coat is basically worn outdoors is the difference.

However, the handling of haori varies depending on gender and the occasion. For women, it is generally customary to take off a haori at formal occasions, but in cases such as a man's montsuki haori hakama, the haori itself may become part of formal attire.

4. What Types of Haori Are There?

There are various types of haori depending on their use, formality, length, design, and other factors.

Here, we will introduce representative haori and the unique charm of haori linings.

Montsuki Haori

A montsuki haori is a haori with a family crest.

In particular, a man's black montsuki haori becomes highly formal attire when combined with a kimono or hakama.

"Montsuki haori hakama," seen at weddings and ceremonies, is one of Japan's traditional formal male outfits.

However, not all montsuki haori have the same level of formality. The positioning of the outfit also changes depending on the number of family crests, the color of the haori, and the combination with a kimono or hakama.

Stylish Haori

A stylish haori is a haori for enjoying colors and patterns on everyday outings.

There are various designs such as komon patterns, stripes, checks, and shibori, and the impression can be changed depending on the combination with a kimono.

For example, pairing a plain kimono with a haori of a gorgeous pattern, or layering a haori of a subdued color over a patterned kimono, expands the range of coordination.

The ability to create depth in an outfit by layering colors and patterns different from a kimono is the charm of a stylish haori.

Nagahaori

A nagahaori is a haori that is longer than a general haori.

There are various differences in length, including some that reach near the knees.

The long length emphasizes the vertical line, creating a clean and calm impression.

Also, because the fabric area is large, it is characterized by the ability to enjoy large motifs and delicate woven patterns.

Note that nagahaori is a name based on length, and the classification criteria differ from montsuki haori and stylish haori.

Haura | The Beauty Hidden Inside a Haori

In talking about the charm of a haori, "haura" is indispensable.

Haura is the lining used on the inside of a haori.

Even if the outer fabric is a subdued plain or a modest pattern, some have gorgeous patterns such as landscapes, flora and fauna, and geometric patterns on the inside.

The background of the development of this culture is related to the clothing regulations of the Edo period.

At that time, the shogunate repeatedly issued "sumptuary laws" restricting the luxurious clothing of townspeople and others.

In such a historical background, wealthy townspeople enjoyed fashion by using subdued colors and patterns on the outer fabric while incorporating expensive silk fabrics and gorgeous motifs into the haori lining, which was less likely to be seen by others .

Even a haori that looks simple at first glance reveals a beautiful lining when taken off.

There, the aesthetic of "iki" unique to the Edo period is expressed, pursuing beauty in invisible parts without merely seeking to stand out.

This haura culture was also passed down after the Meiji period, and you can see unique and beautiful linings in the vintage haori that remain today.

5. When Do You Wear a Haori? Seasons and Occasions

A haori is generally a traditional Japanese outer garment worn from autumn to spring.

It is useful as a supplement to keep warm in chilly seasons, and by layering it over a kimono, you can add variety to your outfit.

On the other hand, there are also items that are easy to incorporate into warmer seasons, such as sheer thin haori.

Therefore, there are no strict universal rules about the time to wear a haori, and it is important to choose it according to the climate, material, and occasion .

Haori as everyday wear can be enjoyed for various outings such as walking around town, theater, museums, and meals.

However, at formal occasions such as weddings, attention is needed for the type of haori and wearing etiquette.

6. Haori Attracting Attention Overseas. What Is the Reason for Its Popularity?

The haori, a traditional Japanese garment, is also introduced as a fashion item overseas.

In the British newspaper "The Guardian," the "Kimono Jacket" rooted in the haori was featured in 2021 and introduced as a lightweight outer garment that can be incorporated into modern men's fashion.

Also, in the English-language culture media "Time Out Tokyo," traditional Japanese clothing and its charm are introduced.

No Dressing Required, Easily Enjoying Japanese Culture

One of the reasons haori are adopted overseas is the ease of wearing.

To wear a kimono, dressing is required such as tying an obi or adjusting the length, but a haori can be layered over everyday Western clothing like a jacket or cardigan.

For example, layering a haori over a T-shirt and denim, or matching a Japanese-patterned haori with a simple dress.

The ability to incorporate Japanese colors, patterns, and silhouettes into everyday fashion without special dressing knowledge can be said to be a major charm of the haori.

People Who Learned About Haori Through "Demon Slayer: Kimetsu no Yaiba"

The Japanese anime "Demon Slayer: Kimetsu no Yaiba" is also one of the opportunities for people overseas to come into contact with haori.

The green and black checkered pattern of the protagonist Tanjiro Kamado, and the distinctive pattern of Giyu Tomioka, among others, the haori worn by the characters each has an impressive design.

Actually, on overseas anime merchandise sales sites, costumes reproducing the characters' haori are introduced and sold. Through such anime works, opportunities are being created to become interested in traditional Japanese clothing and motifs.

Fashion Combining Hijabs with Traditional Japanese Colors and Patterns

Traditional Japanese colors and patterns are also attracting attention in their fusion with "modest fashion" enjoyed by Muslim women.

Modest fashion is a fashion that enjoys one's own style through colors, patterns, silhouettes, etc., while refraining from exposing skin.

Loose haori or kimono-style long jackets can be applied to styling by combining with hijabs, long dresses, etc.

However, among the haori-like items called "Kimono" overseas, some include items that differ in shape and material from traditional Japanese haori.

Also, there are actually initiatives that fuse Japanese kimonos and hijabs.

Japanese designer Kaori Kobayashi is producing "Kimono Hijabs" utilizing vintage kimono fabric.

In a Nippon.com article, it is introduced that hijabs utilizing traditional Japanese colors and patterns are being accepted by Muslim women visiting from overseas.

This is not an example indicating the popularity of the haori itself, but it shows that traditional Japanese fabrics and motifs are being incorporated into fashion of different cultures .

A Piece That Allows You to Enjoy Japanese Culture More Closely

The charm of the haori is not only traditional kimono attire, but also that it can be incorporated into everyday Western clothing.

People interested in traditional Japanese culture, people who learned about haori through anime, people who like vintage fashion, etc., there are various ways to enjoy it.

Haori is, an item that allows you to feel traditional Japanese beauty closely as everyday fashion as new styles are being born across countries and cultures.